Some seasons, makeup worn on the runway is more wacky than wearable. But that isn’t the case this fall season. Over-the-top looks were set aside in favor of more classical looks that were revamped with a modern spin.
Cat-eye liner was flirty and colorful at the runways of designers like Michael Kors, Monique Lhullier and Jason Wu. Lips were high-impact and ultra-matte. On the eyes, makeup artists applied an array of surprising colors in classic ways: Grunge smoky eyes at Phillip Lim, sculpted orangey shadow at BCBC, and a diffuse wash of prune at Nanette Leopore.
So give your beauty regimen a haute upgrade. Here’s a first look at the runway makeup trends you are bound to fall for, and perfect for incorporating into your show arena look –
There is no wrong way to wear black liner this fall.
For the classic ‘60s version, look to Monique Lhullier, Kenzo and Anna Sui,where CoverGirl makeup artist Pat McGrath took the time-honored cat eye for a serious joyride. Using a black pencil, she lined the eyes along the upper lashes, flicking the eyeliner up at the corners. She then dotted chunks of the same liner along the lower lashes for an avant-garde edge. Although this makeup is perhaps a bit too extreme for the show arena, it is still fun inspiration to pull from to create more reserved looks.
Another twist on the traditional cat eye was seen on models at Christian Dior and Jason Wu, where makeup artists applied splashes of color, turning to icy blue and violet, respectively.
If you are bold enough to take up the cat eye trend in the show arena, start by rimming your lash lines with a pencil or an angled liner brush/cream or gel liner formula (such as [my favorite] Stilla’s smudge pot gel eyeliner). Then add a dark shadow, blending it upward for a dramatic look, and apply mascara. For less intensity, use a pencil on your lower lash lines only. Finish off your look with a discreet rosy lip color and keep the rest of your complexion neutral.
For fall, if it was bright, it was matte.
At shows like Diane Von Furstenberg’s models were sent down the runway with matte lips in this pretty pink hue. To achieve this vibrant look, line your lips with a matte, magenta pencil – somewhat overdrawing the middle to highlight your mouths natural shape. Let your pretty lips be the focus by keeping eye makeup to a few swipes of mascara.
Want a lip look that is a little less sweet and a lot more edgy? Try out the fall season’s dark and romantic lips in wine-shades like black cherry, mulberry and plum.
The easiest way to pull it off? Apply the color straight from the tube, blot, reapply, and blot again. You want the color to look a bit diffused (look for the latest backstage pictures from Louis Vuitton, Anthony Vaccarello and Zac Posen [all pictured above] as a reference). As for the rest of your makeup, keep it to a minimum.
Coffee- and indigo-colored shadows update the smoky eye, which takes its inspiration from gothic and grunge 90s makeup. Embraced in the collections of designers such as Donna Karan and Roberto Cavalli, the focus here is on a smudged, sophisticated look.
To create it yourself, trace your inner lash lines in a rich brown pencil, then use a fluffy, medium-sized brush to blend a brown shadow from your lashes up to your crease. If you are using a cream shadow, apply it to your lids and use what is left on your finger to blend it outwards.
Yet again, keep in mind that makeup is about balance. When the eyes make a statement, the lips should be more reserved. And it is the juxtaposition between the rough, edgy eye makeup and the polished, flawless skin that will make this trend look so gorgeous in the arena.
This look was gorgeously done by both BCBG and Prabal Gurung, who used a reddish brown shadow as a neutral to sculpt and shade around models eyes, while at J. Mendel, makeup artist Gucci Westman blended a glossy coppery shadow just past the crease, creating a look that was both effortless and luxurious.
If spring was all about green and blue, fall is all about purple. A deep, brownish purple, to be precise.
On the runway the color was applied in simple and nearly translucent looks like at Nanette Lepore, more intensely as layers built at Giles and Gucci, and even nearly opaque at designers like Oscar de la Renta – a look which felt both urban and sophisticated.
Play around with the level of color to find what you think looks best on you and with your show suit.
The fundamental foil to fall’s strong lips and eyes? Skin with minimal shine (which is perfect for the show arena, as when using foundations and powders with too much shimmer you are also risking looking oily or washed out in photos).
To pull off the matte skin effect, prep skin with a non-greasy gel moisturizer, then apply foundation using a flat makeup brush for perfect, streak-free coverage. Dab concealer on any blemishes or redness around the eyes, nose, and cheeks, dust a loose powder all over to set the look and get rid of shine and BAM! Gorgeous, flawless skin.
There you have them! The fall seasons hottest makeup trends, perfect to incorporate into your show ring look. At last, runway makeup for the rest of us.